At 11am, exhaustion begins to set in amidst the breathtaking Dolomite mountains in northeastern Italy. Rather than hiking or skiing, I’ve spent the morning joyously bouncing on trampolines, racing down water slides, navigating a castle, and even sailing a pirate ship across a serene lagoon. It’s been a whirlwind of fun, especially as I’ve repeatedly hauled an inflatable ring carrying my two-year-old son up an artificial outdoor ski slope, delighting in his beaming smile as he zooms down again.

This energetic start to the day is typical at Falkensteiner Family Resort Lido, located on the outskirts of Casteldarne. My family and I traveled to the predominantly German-speaking South Tyrol region for an autumn adventure, avoiding the summer crowds while enjoying lower hotel rates before the busy winter ski season kicks in. For those who prefer hiking boots to skis, this time of year is especially appealing. While snow caps many peaks, the valleys and forested mountains remain lush and vibrant, with pleasantly warm weather ideal for outdoor activities.

Our stay includes visits to three family-focused hotels, which are part of the Familienhotels Südtirol cooperative. This network of family-operated establishments is relatively unknown to UK tourists, yet they are situated near the prime skiing locations. Each hotel is tailored to meet the needs of families, featuring amenities for children while maintaining elegance and comfort for parents. In addition to children’s pools, playgrounds, and trampolines, guests can enjoy gourmet dining, outdoor pools, and breathtaking mountain vistas. Although the presence of a crying baby or toddler tantrum can occasionally disrupt the atmosphere, it fosters a sense of camaraderie among adults who share the experience of family life together.

The concept appears successful. Established in 1997, the association comprises 27 hotels across South Tyrol, with members required to meet specific standards in exchange for an annual fee. The cooperative manages the marketing for these hotels, many of which boast easy access to leading ski areas, including Val Gardena, Meran 2000, Alta Badia, and Tre Cime (Three Peaks).

We’ve opted for the Falkensteiner, conveniently located an hour’s drive northeast from Bolzano Airport, the gateway to the Dolomites, and just thirty minutes from the Kronplatz ski area, making it an excellent starting point to explore the extraordinary mountains of eastern South Tyrol. The hotel’s offerings were appealing for our young son. While navigating public transport in the autumn can be challenging, having a rental car is advisable.

The hotel features 118 rooms and opened in 2023, designed in a spacious U-shape that embraces a lido. Its wave-like roof is home to the Sky Adventure Park, which includes a ski slope, a race track with small cars, a play area with slides from a castle-like structure, and an indoor trampoline room known as ValoJump.

Our morning activities include jumping on trampolines while projecting ourselves in Avatar-style forests, and encouraging my son to ride a blue motorcycle around the race track. We also explore the ski slope, the hotel’s standout attraction, which is a green plastic surface during autumn but covered in snow come winter. Although my son is too young for skiing lessons, he enjoys sliding down the slope in a large inflatable ring. Occasionally, we see older children practicing their skills or attending lessons. Later, we take turns paddling across the lake on a wooden raft styled after a pirate ship.

If the excitement becomes overwhelming, parents can retreat to the adults-only spa, while a complimentary kids’ club is available for children of any age, along with optional babysitting services at a nominal fee. In the evening, the restaurant serves delicious options like sea bass fillets, steaks, and kid-favorite pizzas, with ice cream available from a roaming cart.

One day, we visit the nearby Dobbiaco wildlife park to feed wild boars, Mongolian gerbils, mountain goats, llamas, and deer, followed by an afternoon ride on one of the hotel’s e-bikes with my son comfortably nestled in a trailer. We meander alongside the rushing Pusteria River, through dense forests and farmland, each hamlet featuring the signature red roofs of local churches.

Next, we spend a couple of nights at Garberhof Dolomit Family Resort, an upscale boutique hotel nestled in the village of Rasun di Sotto close to Kronplatz. With its fragrant pine corridors, chic bar, and serene indoor-outdoor pool, Garberhof exudes sophistication while remaining family-friendly, with teddy bears and playful animals throughout. Our suite, decorated with hardwood flooring and warm Alpine lighting, boasts a balcony that offers stunning views over the village set within a valley surrounded by mountains.

One afternoon we stroll around Lake Antholz, a tranquil location where clouds drift over wooded, snow-dusted peaks. The breathtaking scenery is awe-inspiring, but my son finds equal joy in returning to the hotel to play in the sandpit and fill up toy vehicles at a pretend gas station.

The following morning, I borrow an e-bike to travel 20km to Gassl, where we take a cable car to reach Kronplatz. With my son secured in a baby-carrier backpack, we explore the summit at an elevation of 2,275 meters, relishing the sunshine and clear blue skies against a backdrop of sparkling fresh snow. We had hoped to share the beauty of the natural world with our son, and the panoramic views from here do not disappoint, with rugged, snow-capped peaks emerging from the clouds.

We visit the summit’s Lumen Museum, dedicated to mountain photography, and the bunker-style Messner Mountain Museum Corones, which celebrates climbing culture. This museum, conceived by the legendary climber and adventurer Reinhold Messner, exhibits his remarkable achievements and the incredible challenges of mountaineering—though I doubt he ever dragged a child in an inflatable tire behind him down an artificial ski slope! It seems we are equally matched in our adventures.

Finally, we reach Post Alpina in Versciaco, a founding member of the Familienhotels Südtirol and situated 3km from the Austrian border. We reside in a cozy self-contained chalet clustered around a large dark-wood structure housing the reception, restaurant, and indoor pool. Our apartment features wooden walls and ceilings and includes a kitchen, lounge, and a hot tub in the upstairs bedroom (perfect for parents with little free time). During dinner, a towering cow mascot delights and occasionally frightens the children as it strolls through the restaurant.

On our last morning, we travel to Rifugio Auronzo, the starting point for the famous 10km trek to the Three Peaks, the Dolomites’ iconic rock formations. With my son in a backpack, I can only imagine how Messner endured the same adventure, albeit without the background noise of a toddler singing his favorite songs. We pass by the charming white church of Rifugio Locatelli, climbing up toward a rocky plateau for an unforgettable view of the Three Peaks—an awe-inspiring sight for a two-year-old.

Returning to Post Alpina, I leave my family in the kids’ pool, where my son joyfully zips down slides, while I take a refreshing swim in the warm outdoor pool, steam rising into the evening air. The soft glow of dusk casts a magical light on the surrounding pine trees, with the jagged silhouettes of the Dolomites stretching against the evening sky. Sharing such a magnificent location with my son feels like a true blessing. Perhaps it will ignite a spark for a lifetime of extraordinary adventures to come.