In Mauritius, there are two elements that might catch you off guard. The first is the unpredictable weather; tropical storms can strike during the summer months from November to May. I traveled with my partner, Tom, in April, when picturesque blue skies could suddenly give way to gray clouds, especially during the early stages of our week-long visit. The second aspect to be wary of is the potent local rum, made from the island’s sugar cane. It’s notorious for giving you a euphoric high after one or two drinks, but have three, and you may find it hard to stay upright.

Undeterred by the occasional rain, we devoted our initial days to familiarize ourselves with our resort, Shangri-La Le Touessrok, located in the Trou d’Eau Douce bay along the eastern coast. The resort feels like a paradise, surrounded by 2.4 miles of golden sand, making our journey from suite to beach a mere 30 seconds’ stroll. Renowned for honeymooners, Mauritius hosts a plethora of luxury accommodations, yet this iconic resort stands out, having hosted British royalty in the 1980s and recently undergoing a £19 million renovation to celebrate its 45th anniversary. It is also unique for having its own private island, Ilot Mangénie, where we blissfully spent a day in a cabana, watching fishermen cast their nets and paragliders sail in the distance.

All 184 rooms, suites, and three exclusive villas offer a taste of elegant coastal design, characterized by soft beige decor and natural materials. The smart layout of three distinct wings separates families from couples, ensuring a relaxed atmosphere for all guests. We enjoyed a Frangipani suite, sequestered from the main resort by a wooden bridge, complete with luxurious features such as oversized egg-shaped bathtubs, personalized minibars, and à la carte breakfasts at Coco’s Beach House. Guests in this wing also have access to an adults-only infinity pool, aromatic with floating frangipani flowers and served by an ice-cream vendor on a bicycle delivering refreshing mango sorbet. These thoughtful touches, such as a sun cream station and attentive staff anticipating drink refills, elevate the getaway experience.

In addition to complimentary activities like snorkeling and kite-surfing that could easily fill your days, the staff are eager to showcase the island’s wild southern regions, which remain largely unexplored by tourists. Driving through a captivating landscape reminiscent of Jurassic Park, we encountered lush fields of sugar cane and dormant volcanoes, while vibrant parakeets soared above. Our first stop was Grand Bassin, an 18-meter-deep crater lake encircled by colorful Hindu statues. Offerings of vivid yellow allamanda flowers and bananas lay at the feet of the deities, where worshippers pray and purify themselves with the sacred lake’s waters, seeking blessings for wealth, health, and happiness. A young pujari rings a large bell to send prayers skyward while blessing offerings with aromatic incense.

Regardless of your feelings toward spirituality, the temple’s ambiance is enchanting. We lit a candle before Sashti, the guardian of children, in honor of our unborn daughter, who is snug inside with only four months until her arrival. This tranquil moment was abruptly interrupted by a monkey, eager for fruit, swinging between the statues and snatching up handfuls of bananas while causing quite a commotion.

Next, we headed to the Bois Cheri tea plantation, where neat rows of vibrant leaves are picked by workers in straw hats and colorful saris. Although a factory tour showcasing the tea-making process was offered, I found the heat a bit overwhelming during pregnancy, so we opted for a tasting instead, savoring blends infused with cardamom, caramel, and vanilla in a charming café perched on stilts overlooking a lake with graceful black swans and wild boar.

The following day, we explored Port Louis, the capital, where the local cuisine has been shaped by diverse cultures, including Indian, African, Chinese, and European influences. The market pulsated with energy as vendors exchanged goods in Creole. Shoppers were busy haggling over boxes of dragon fruit, fresh mint, and crispy chili fritters, filling their motorbikes with a week’s supply of groceries. I couldn’t help but gaze at colorful cakes crafted from sweet condensed milk, all priced attractively low. A popular dish awaited at the dholl puri stalls, where rotis filled with vegetables are served with spicy Creole tomato sauce at merely 30p. Another local favorite is alouda, a milky drink with tapioca pearls.

The two dishes made for a perfect picnic at the nearby Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden in Pamplemousses. The gardens are a feast for the senses, featuring giant water lilies that change colors and fruit bats that dangle from lychee trees. A stroll through the 75 acres of fragrant surroundings felt akin to sneaking into a bakery during Easter.

The next day, we traded shopping and sightseeing for a morning boat ride down the Grande Rivière Sud Est. Our boat made its way to a picturesque waterfall through winding backwaters, lined with towering volcanic rock formations and a canopy of trees observing us. Eagerly anticipating sightings of reef sharks, we kept our eyes peeled for movement in the water. Though we didn’t see any sharks, we were delighted by a spontaneous display from a pod of spinner dolphins performing acrobatics in sync.

Curious to explore underwater, we donned snorkeling gear and glided over the island’s renowned pristine reefs, discovering bewilderingly intricate pink corals that looked like whimsical structures straight out of a fairy tale. Schools of slender, silver trumpet fish navigated through the reefs, while the serene water allowed us to admire starfish and vibrant parrotfish, sometimes only inches away from our masks. Tom was particularly excited about a cleverly camouflaged flat fish, which barely revealed its two blinking eyes as we hovered above.

As evening descended, we returned to the resort, where the night sky was so clear that stargazing felt effortless. Our favorite dinners included beach barbecues with chefs skillfully grilling lobsters and steaks under twinkling lights, though the Japanese and Indian cuisine offered also caught our attention. The setting was yet so romantic that I should have anticipated the surprise to come. It turns out there are indeed three things to watch out for in Mauritius, once you’ve mastered the rum and weather.

On one of our final mornings, Tom woke before dawn, pretending to have a headache while claiming he was off to find some paracetamol. When he didn’t return for half an hour, I worriedly stepped outside, expecting to find him sunbathing by the pool, only to discover a proposal made from frangipani flowers on the beach. I said yes, but with the condition that we would return one day to this enchanting island—after all, someone must verify the strength of the rum!

Lucy Perrin authored this piece, reflecting on her visit to Shangri-La Le Touessrok.

Three More Stylish Hotels in Mauritius

By Siobhan Grogan

1. Lux Grand Gaube

This resort spans two beautiful bays on the northern coast and offers six dining options, including a gourmet burger shack under banyan trees, a Creole smokehouse, and restaurants serving Peruvian and Turkish cuisine. With family-friendly activities, including a cinema and kids’ club, there is also an adults-only section featuring a peaceful pool and private lagoon. The suites and villas, designed by Kelly Hoppen, embrace a breezy beach house aesthetic in calming sandy tones and blues.

2. Paradise Cove Boutique Hotel

Located beside the stunning Anse La Raie Beach on the northern coast, this adults-only hotel highlights elegant white interiors adorned with rattan furniture and botanical feature walls. Dine at any of the four restaurants, including one nestled among coconut trees that offers a five-course vegan tasting menu by chef Alexis Gauthier. Unique activities include archery, art therapy, t’ai chi, and stargazing, along with a catamaran available for sea outings. The Cinq Mondes spa offers luxurious experiences, including a hammam and a double massage hut with ocean views.

3. Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa

Set on the tranquil Wolmar Beach in the west, this all-villa resort guarantees stunning sunset views. Covering 27 acres with 65 spacious villas, guests enjoy a stretch of sandy beach and private heated pools, outdoor lounges, walk-in closets, and marble bathrooms. Each villa includes butler service with a range of activities available, such as cooking classes, water sports, wine tasting, or island tours in a chauffeur-driven Rolls-Royce Phantom. There are also four dining options featuring various cuisines, including a restaurant dedicated to seafood.