As we embark on our Mekong River cruise, we are welcomed by six local elders whose calm expressions reflect a lifetime of wisdom. They perform a traditional Baci farewell ceremony, wishing us health, safety, and happiness for our journey through Laos. In a moment of silence, our leader struggles with a microphone, ultimately opting for the power of his voice.

In the tranquil waters of the Lower Mekong, amplification is unnecessary. We listen intently to his chant: “Ma der khuan euy.” “Please come, spirits …”

The ancient ritual concludes as white cotton strings are tied around each guest’s wrist, accompanied by gentle blessings and shared treats—plump mango slices, soft pink confections, and crispy sweet bread.

This heartfelt farewell captures the Laotian values of community, connection, and spirituality—themes that resonated throughout my stay. In every location, local inhabitants showcased traditional principles of respect and gratitude that truly nourish the soul. Laos is undeniably a remarkable destination.

Flowing over 3,000 miles from the Tibetan Plateau in China to Myanmar, the Mekong River traverses the core of Laos before reaching Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam. It serves as a vital resource for those residing along its banks. Only the Amazon boasts greater biodiversity; while we encountered muddy waters on our journey, the numerous traditional dug-out canoes underscored the river’s abundance. The tawny river waters create a stunning backdrop for breathtaking sunsets awash in crimson and gold hues.

The cruise aboard the luxurious riverboat Boheme began and concluded in Luang Prabang, a vibrant city recognized by UNESCO for its French colonial heritage. Though guests could start their adventure in Vientiane, the capital of Laos, I chose to frame my experience with hotel stays in the lively ambiance of Bangkok and central Luang Prabang.

After a night at Bangkok’s modern Avani+ hotel, featuring a glamorous rooftop pool, I flew to Luang Prabang, where the Boheme was docked. As the riverboat glided down the Mekong, it felt as if I was retreating from the bustle of modern life.

This contemporary vessel, built in 2015, features a main dining area and a splendid rooftop lounge, with interior designs inspired by 19th-century French Indochinese styles, characterized by rich dark wood furnishings and modern textiles in charcoal and burnt orange.

With 13 guest suites on three decks, the Boheme fosters a sense of familiarity among travelers. While some fellow passengers hailed from the UK, others traveled from the US, Germany, and Canada.

Aboard this intimate yet comfortable vessel, passengers enjoy the luxury of an opulent cruise without pretensions. It includes a Royal Suite with a wraparound balcony, double day bed, and a bath offering river vistas. My suite provided expansive windows and a generously sized day bed to fully absorb the Mekong’s rhythms. Thoughtful touches such as plush flip-flops, local art, and fragrant vanilla-bean tea further enhanced the experience.

We moored each night, allowing us to awaken gently to the crowing of roosters from riverside farms before enjoying leisurely breakfasts each morning. The five-night itinerary was rich with daily excursions and included all meals and beverages, from cocktails to canapés, alongside a cooking and mixology class, and a 60-minute signature massage in one of the onboard treatment rooms. The youthful crew of 19 were attentive and even provided informal language lessons, teaching me that “Thank you very much” translates to “Khob chai lai lai.”

Daily meals often featured sticky rice, a beloved component of Laotian cuisine, essential for balancing flavorful soups and silky red curries. I particularly enjoyed the generous prawns, hearty river fish, luscious chocolate mousse with slices of muscat grapes, and delectable coconut desserts.

Though our trip was blessed with sunny weather, Laos’s winter mornings and evenings can be surprisingly cool, with thick mists lingering above the water. By the time we reached the renowned Kuang Si waterfalls on the first day, sunlight illuminated the glistening turquoise pools flowing from its three tiers. In contrast to some roaring waterfalls, Kuang Si exudes a tranquil allure that soothes the soul with a gentle, never-ending whisper.

This serene haven also serves as a sanctuary for rescued Asiatic moon bears, who relax contentedly in hammocks and search for ants around woodpiles at the nearby Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre, a visit included in our cruise package. This center rescues moon bears from illegal bile farms. While wildlife and markets continue to play a role in Laos’s culture, recent years have seen an improvement in attitudes toward animal welfare.

One example of this positive change is the Laos Buffalo Dairy, founded by Susie Martin in 2017. Initially clueless about dairy farming, she and her husband learned how to milk buffalo through YouTube tutorials, laying the groundwork for a breeding and education program benefiting both the animals and local farmers. What began as skepticism from local farmers has grown into meaningful collaboration, and by 2019, they successfully partnered with over 200 farmers from 20 villages.

Visitors can tour the dairy, sample various buffalo milk products, including cheese and ice cream, and even try their hand at milking, which proved easier than I anticipated. Throughout our travels, we engaged in traditional crafts, such as making saa paper in Ban Xang Khong and pottery at one of the few remaining Laos pottery workshops.

Thieng Lamphet, who established the Lao Pottery House in Ban Chan Neu, shared the challenges of keeping pottery traditions alive. With a heritage spanning over 400 years, local beliefs discouraged selling pottery as it was thought to lose the blessings within the clay. Recognizing the importance of preserving this craft, the Laotian government now supports pottery workshops, employing individuals with diverse backgrounds, including those with disabilities.

Laotians embody a quiet pride that distinguishes them from others. In the night market, no aggressive sales tactics prevailed, and the atmosphere felt secure and welcoming. The presence of contemplative Buddhist monks adds a spiritual ambiance to the area. At the Pak Ou caves, located two hours upstream from Luang Prabang, over 4,000 Buddha figurines adorn the grottos, attracting both tourists and pious monks who frequently visit.

On my last morning in Laos, while staying at the Avani+ Luang Prabang hotel, I participated in Tak Bat, the daily alms-giving ceremony steeped in centuries of history. As day broke, lines of barefoot monks emerged from their temples to accept offerings of sticky rice, fruit, and sweets from devotees. I knelt silently, wrapped in a scarf, contributing to their alms bowls as they passed by, resisting the urge to gaze into their eyes, mindful that in this sacred space, it’s believed that what you provide to the monks returns to you in the afterlife. Khob chai lai lai, Laos.